Installation is as simple as inserting the fan into the case, lining it up with the mounting holes, and screwing in four fasteners to lock it in place. Every case supports certain fan diameters (usually 120mm and 140mm), so be sure to consult its documentation. Your case should have set mounting points on the front, rear, top, bottom, and sometimes even the sides. Installation: Installing case fans is very easy. Depending on the case fans you select, this can cost more than using fewer smaller fans but gives you some extra control over your PCs acoustics. Since multiple fans and those with larger blades can move more air, making these changes allows you to run them more slowly, lowering the total noise of your system. If you’re technical and have a computer that supports it (prebuilt systems oftend don't), you can even go into your system’s BIOS and create a custom fan curve to balance cooling performance with noise levels.Īnother option is to add more or larger fans to your system.
RPM is less important so long as the fan is able to move plenty of air without making your PC sound like a jet engine. When shopping for case fans, look for the best balance of CFM and dB that fits your budget. If fan noise bothers you, try to aim for a fan below 30dB. A fan that spins exceptionally fast is likely to have a more powerful motor and to generate more vibrations that you’ll hear when using your PC. The higher the RPM, the more air it is likely to move however, these high speeds often come at the cost of noise, measured in decibels (dB). RPM, or Rotations Per Minute, is how fast a fan spins.
This number can range widely depending on fan size, RPM, and how it balances noise levels, but a “good” case fan will typically output upwards of 50 CFM. CFM, RPM and Noise: The volume of air a fan can move is measured in Cubic Feet Per Minute (CFM).
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